SectionHome & DIY
Last reviewed8 August 2026
Reading time5 minutes

What this calculator works out

This calculator takes the height of the fitting above the floor, subtracts the clearance you want at the bottom, and applies any adjustment for the heading, giving a finished curtain drop.

Drop is measured from the point the curtain hangs from, which depends on the heading type — and getting that starting point wrong is the most common reason curtains arrive the wrong length.

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Before you measure

The three heights a curtain drop calculation needsA window with a pole above it and curtains hanging from rings. The fitting height is marked from the pole down to the floor, the floor clearance from the hem down to the floor, and the header adjustment between the pole and the top of the fabric.The three heights this calculator asks forFloorFitting heightabove floorFloor clearanceHeader
The three figures the form asks for, on the wall they are taken from. Fitting height runs from the pole to the floor, not from the top of the window. The header adjustment is measured to the pole for eyelet curtains, which sit above it, and to the hook for pleated ones, which hang below the ring — so it can be negative.
Where to put the pole

The usual guidance is 10 to 15 cm above the window and extending 15 to 20 cm beyond each side. Higher makes the window look taller; wider lets the curtains stack back off the glass so more light comes in. Both matter more than most people expect on a small window.

How this calculator works

A subtraction and an adjustment:

Finished drop = fitting height above floor − floor clearance + header adjustment

The header adjustment allows for the distance between the pole and the top of the fabric. For eyelet curtains the fabric sits above the pole, so the adjustment is positive; for hooks hanging below rings it may be negative.

The result is the finished drop of the made-up curtain, not the fabric length — hems and headings add to that, and a pattern repeat adds more.

Worked example: a pole at 220 cm

Using the default figures — a fitting 220 cm above the floor, 1 cm clearance, no header adjustment:

Ready-made curtains come in fixed drops, commonly 137, 183 and 229 cm. A 219 cm requirement falls awkwardly between the last two: 183 cm leaves the curtain 36 cm off the floor, and 229 cm puddles by 10 cm. Either take up the longer pair, lower the pole, or accept a deliberate puddle — which is a decision worth making before ordering rather than after.

Common mistakes

Frequently asked questions

Should curtains touch the floor?

It depends on the look and the use. A 1 to 2 cm gap keeps them clean and lets them draw easily, which suits everyday rooms. A slight break where the fabric just touches looks more tailored. A deliberate puddle of 10 to 20 cm is a decorative choice for rooms where curtains are rarely drawn. Sill-length is normal above a radiator or a deep sill.

Can I shorten ready-made curtains?

Usually, and it is a straightforward job if the hem is generous — most are. Lined curtains are more work because the lining hem should sit slightly shorter than the face fabric. Hemming tape is a reasonable non-sewing option for a small adjustment. Lengthening is far harder, so if you are between sizes, buy long.

What is the difference between drop and fabric length?

Drop is the finished visible length once made. Fabric length adds the heading allowance at the top and the hem at the bottom — commonly 15 to 25 cm in total, more for a deep double hem — plus an allowance for matching the pattern repeat across panels.

Does the curtain heading affect the drop?

Yes, substantially. Eyelet curtains sit with the fabric top above the pole, so the drop is measured from the pole's top. Pencil pleat and pinch pleat hang from hooks in rings, so the fabric starts several centimetres below the pole. The same pole with different headings needs different drops.

Is what I enter stored?

No. Measurements are processed in your browser and never transmitted or retained.

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References

Sources are checked at publication and can change — how I choose and check references.

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