What this calculator works out
This calculator divides a planting area by the space each tree occupies — row spacing multiplied by spacing within the row — to give a tree count.
The spacing figures determine everything, and they differ enormously by purpose. An orchard on dwarfing rootstock, a screening belt and a woodland planting use spacings that vary by a factor of five.
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Before you plant trees
- Spacing depends on species, rootstock and purpose. Dwarf apples go at 2 to 3 m; standard forest trees need 5 m or more; a mature oak needs 15 m or more of room.
- Check the distance to buildings, drains and boundaries. Some species should be kept well away from foundations, particularly on clay soils.
- Consider the neighbour's side. Overhanging branches and roots crossing a boundary are a recurring source of dispute.
- Woodland and screening plantings are deliberately close, with the intention of thinning later.
On shrinkable clay soils, tree roots can contribute to subsidence by drying the soil beneath foundations. Guidance generally relates a safe distance to the species' mature height and its water demand — high-demand species such as willow, poplar and oak need considerably more clearance than a small ornamental. Where clay soil and older shallow foundations meet, professional advice is worth having before planting.
How this calculator works
Area divided by the space per tree:
Space per tree = row spacing × spacing within the row
Trees = planting area ÷ space per tree, rounded downBoth spacings are in metres here, unlike the vegetable calculator, because tree spacings are naturally expressed that way. The result rounds down, since a partial space holds nothing.
Worked example: a 200 m² plot
Using the default figures — 200 m² with rows 4 m apart and trees 3 m apart in the row:
- Space per tree: 12 m²
- Trees: 200 ÷ 12 = 16.67, rounded down to 16
4 m by 3 m is orchard density — appropriate for fruit trees on semi-dwarfing rootstock, or for a screening belt intended to be thinned. Plant standard forest trees at that spacing and they will be competing badly within fifteen years. At a more realistic 6 m by 6 m the same plot holds five trees rather than sixteen, which is the difference between a small copse and a crowded thicket.
Common mistakes
- Using orchard spacings for standard trees. A mature forest tree needs several times the room.
- Planting too close to buildings. Check species and soil, particularly on clay.
- Ignoring the boundary. Roots and branches crossing it cause disputes and legal obligations.
- Forgetting overhead and underground services. Both constrain where trees can go.
- Planting a dense belt with no thinning plan. Close planting only works if thinning happens.
Frequently asked questions
How far from a house should I plant a tree?
It depends on the species, its mature size, its water demand and the soil. On shrinkable clay with older foundations, high water-demand species need substantial clearance — commonly quoted as at least the tree's mature height for the thirstiest species. On non-shrinkable soils with modern foundations the risk is much lower. If in doubt, a structural engineer or arboriculturist can advise for the specific situation.
Do I need permission to plant or fell a tree?
Planting rarely needs permission, though some sites have planning conditions requiring or restricting it. Felling frequently does: trees covered by a Tree Preservation Order, or any tree in a conservation area above a certain size, require notice to or consent from the local authority. Felling protected trees without consent carries substantial fines.
What about my neighbour's tree?
You generally have the right to cut back branches or roots crossing the boundary, back to the boundary line and no further, and the cuttings belong to the tree's owner. That right does not apply to protected trees without consent. The practical advice is always to speak to the neighbour first.
Should I stake a newly planted tree?
Usually for the first year or two on anything above about a metre, using a short stake at an angle or a low vertical stake so the top of the tree can flex — that flexing is what builds trunk strength. Stakes are removed once the roots have established, and leaving them too long produces a weak tree dependent on support.
Is what I enter stored?
No. Measurements are processed in your browser and never transmitted or retained.
Related tools
References
- Royal Horticultural Society — tree planting, spacing and distance from buildings
- GOV.UK — Tree Preservation Orders, felling licences and tree health guidance
Sources are checked at publication and can change — how I choose and check references.